Cosmeceutical Skincare Reviewed by a Singapore Dermatologist — Fad or Fact?
- What are cosmeceuticals?
Cosmeceuticals refer to skincare that is a combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are sold as cosmetics but has drug-like or pharmaceutical properties. They have benefits of improving appearance by means of its ability to affect the structure and function of the skin, with research and evidence backed by dermatologists. Dermatologists increasingly spearhead the development and use of cosmeceuticals in their practice as opposed to regular cosmetic skincare or traditionally gentle dermatologist-tested formulas.
2. Cosmeceutical skincare has real scientific benefits
The key points to know are these types of skincare contains bioactive ingredients, which means it has been laboratory tested and formulated to ensure effectiveness and proper penetration onto skin. Also, the ingredients are not simply normal moisturisers or typical cosmetic formulas but rather contain anti-aging/wrinkle, sun-protective, anti-acne and anti-oxidant ingredients that have been backed by dermatological research. However, it is important to note that neither the FDA nor the HSA (Health Sciences Authority) in Singapore regulate or recognise the term as separate from cosmetics and so not just any cosmeceutical brand is bound to the claims on their packaging.
3. Why thorough brand research matters
Because cosmeceuticals are not regulated by the FDA or HSA (Health Sciences Authority) and are not bound to the claims on their packaging, it’s difficult for the consumer to know if a given product can do what it claims it can do, contains the ingredients it claims to, or if the ingredients have the potential to cause harmful reactions (i.e.phototoxic conditions) when exposed to the sun or allergic/irritant contact dermatitis. If you were diligent enough, check out www.pubmed.com, key in the active ingredient to see if any research papers exist to back it up, this is where medical specialists review the latest evidence for medical treatments. As a quick rule of thumb, a product recommended by a dermatologist would be safe bet. One would be wise to do thorough brand research, look for the labels “dermatologist formulated/recommended” or just consult a dermatologist before you buy.
4. Cosmeceuticals do not treat skin conditions, see an accredited dermatologist instead
I have seen many patients with problem skin such as eczema or acne who have self-medicated with a variety of creams desperately in search of a cure, getting worse in the process before eventually deciding to see a dermatologist. Dermatologically formulated cosmeceuticals are helpful for maintaining healthy skin and preventing antiaging. However, they are not meant for treating skin conditions. Truth is, if you have a skin problem, no skin care alone can treat it although improper skincare can certainly worsen it.
Skin sensitivity, in the form of redness, itch or pain, is commonly due to facial eczema, which must be treated with medications by a dermatologist, who will determine if there are underlying causes, such as contact dermatitis( use of unsuitable products, including shampoos, hair dyes), or atopic dermatitis, which is often inherited. The same goes for acne, which is a medical condition and should be treated rather than adopt a “wait it out” approach as scarring can be permanent and difficult to treat. I have come across several patients who were dismissed as having “hormonal acne’’ when it was actually a harbinger of more serious health problems, such as polycystic ovarian disease, which if left untreated may cause infertility.
The truth is, beauty counters, medi-spas and cosmetic companies are not dermatologists and cannot treat skin conditions. Dermatologists are the only accredited skin specialists with the Ministry of Health. (Tip: check your doctor’s qualifications on the Singapore Medical Council website or find an accredited dermatologist here). In my practice, I’ve seen patients who have developed skin allergies to products dispensed to them. It may come as a surprise to many, that dermatologists do not recommend most cosmetic skincare lines but rather gentle dermatologist-formulated cleansers especially for those with sensitive or acne prone or post-laser skin types, which respect the skin barrier. Check with your dermatologist if you are unsure. The skin is the largest organ of the body and just like any other organ, does get sick.skin problems should not be treated lightly.
5. Cosmeceuticals can help to anti-age skin without lasers, injections and surgery
My journey with cosmeceuticals started in my dermatology practice, when I formulated a 7-step cosmeceutical skincare range for the range of patients I see, whether they have healthy or problem skin-types, ranging from teenagers with acne to women in their twenties, thirties, forties and beyond. For those with anti-ageing concerns, it is an adjunct to the advanced cosmetic dermatology treatments I offer, such as botox, fillers, lasers and high intensity focussed ultrasound (HIFU), to help accelerate treatment response and also as a cost-effective way for my patients to maintain the beneficial effects of these cosmetic treatments right at home, with cosmeceutical skincare. It was important for me that as a dermatologist-tested line, it also works well for patients who suffer from facial eczema, who previously could not use anti-ageing products available on the market as they were not dermatologically formulated.
What is a dermatologist? A dermatologist (skin specialist) is a qualified medical specialist who has obtained qualifications to specialise in the diagnosis, treatment and prevention of skin, nail and hair diseases. Dermatologists are trained in cosmetic skin problems and aesthetic procedures. Only doctors listed as dermatologists by the Ministry of Health are recognised dermatologists. Cosmetic lasers, treatments, botulinum toxin and filler injections were developed by dermatologists. Aesthetic doctors are not skin specialists, they are family practitioners(GPs) who need to be accredited by the Dermatological Society of Singapore to carry out these procedures. Having a diploma in dermatology (Dip Derm) or a diploma in family practice dermatology (Dip FP Dermatology) does not qualify a doctor to be a dermatologist.
— Dermatological Society of Singapore
Dr. Teo Wan Lin is an accredited dermatologist in Singapore and also the Medical Director of TWL Specialist Skin & Laser Centre. She formulates a proprietary line of dermatologist grade cosmeceuticals Dr. TWL Dermaceuticals which work synergistically with customised, evidence-based aesthetic treatments she offers to her patients. She is a regular contributor and resident beauty specialist for ZCOOP Singapore.
